Travel&Vacation

I’ll admit it. I always thought of
Moby-Dick
as the lima beans of great literature—good for you, but hard to digest. On a recent trip to the Berkshires to tour Edith Wharton’s estate, though, I learned that Melville’s home was not too far away. Intrigued to see how the author of such a weighty tome lived, I added a stop there to my itinerary.

Visiting both authors’ homes provided a fascinating study in 19th-century class and society in America. Should you be headed to the Berkshires—for live music at Tanglewood, a Shakespeare performance, or rugged adventure in the mountains—consider stopping for a visit at the homes of these literary greats. Even if you’re unfamiliar with their works (as was my traveling companion), you won’t be disappointed.

Wharton’s Estate: The Mount

I was first assigned Wharton’s
Ethan Frome
in high school. “Even if you read this in the middle of July,” my teacher promised, “you’ll feel icy cold by the time you’re done with the book.” He was right. Wharton’s depiction of an endlessly gray New England winter is so spot-on that I was easily transported to the Berkshires with little stretch of the imagination.

The Mount, Wharton’s estate in Lenox, Massachusetts, has been open to the public since 2002. There, bookworm tourists can see the bedroom where Wharton wrote her masterpieces, the suite Henry James would stay in when he visited, and a display of first-edition covers of Wharton’s many works. First-edition and rare books are also available for purchase at the Mount’s bookstore. A recent acquisition, not to be missed, is Wharton’s library, brought over from England. Returned to their original home, her books look handsome in the space intended just for their display.

Witnessing the extensive care the author took in planning her estate and gardens is an unexpected bonus to visiting the Mount. An authority on interior design, Wharton used her home as a showcase for elegance, symmetry, and practicality. Much like her books, the Mount’s details are chosen with economy, so function and aesthetics work together to create a space that’s both visually attractive and livable. When I asked the curators some of the comments they get from visitors, “I could live here” and “It’s elegant but not overwhelming” are frequently mentioned.

The Mount hasn’t always been so polished. Neglected for years and left in a state of disrepair, the estate is undergoing a massive restoration. There’s evidence of progress with each new visit, such as living areas restored to their former glory with authentically reproduced wall colors, plaster accents, and décor—all in accordance with original photographs of the home and Wharton’s taste—as well as seasonally changing gardens.

Summers bring the “Wharton on Wednesdays” event, featuring readings of her works on Wednesday evenings in July and August; “Selected Shorts,” readings of short pieces by famous authors; and the Amy Clampitt Poetry Series, an August festival celebrating American poets. Lectures on a variety of topics of interest to Wharton are also held regularly throughout the summer months.

Visiting information: Open May through October, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. $16 for adults, $11 for students, free for children six and younger. A one-hour guided tour is $4.

Melville’s estate: Arrowhead

Imagine a prolific, best-selling novelist discouraged from writing and falling into financial trouble after receiving several bad reviews. His passing is noted with little more than an incorrect obituary, and his works become lost to the ages … until, upon the selling of his Pittsfield, Massachusetts, home, two trunks are discovered in the attic. The trunks contain a manuscript,
Billy Budd
, which is posthumously published to great acclaim.
Moby-Dick
is re-published, and Herman Melville, years after his death, cements his place as one of the greatest American authors.